Rider to Rider Communication

 I bought an adventure bike to explore off-road.  I also bought a helmet intercom system from Sena (actually mine is branded HJC but it made by Sena, it is an HJC 10B).  I rode with some friends that also have helmet intercoms.  This is really great, pretty much a necessity once you have had it.  There is no going back.  You can hold a conversation while riding.  The front person can also warn the people behind of upcoming obstacles, vehicles, hazards, etc. You can also discuss where you want to ride, what turns to take, do you want to stop, etc.  

The two leading helmet communications makers are Sena and Cardo.  These 2 both have mesh systems which allows the communications to use multiple riders to relay messages across the group.  This also allows for larger groups of riders to all communicate at the same time.  These 2 mesh systems are not compatible though (although Cardo now offers a bridge feature).  This intercom approach is great for street riders who ride close together.  However, off-road the intercom approach has some issues.  Off-road we have things like dust, gravel, and rocks getting kicked up by the tires, narrow trails, and other issues that make us ride much farther apart.  We also have hills, canyons, mountains, and other obstacles that interrupt the communications.  If the person in the back drops their bike, communication is lost pretty fast as the other riders increase the distance.  Just when you need it most you lose communications.  Mesh helps some as it daisy chains all the riders but you can still break the chain at any time.

I did some investigation into options.  I found this great YouTube video going over this same issue and several solutions. 

I looked into these options and decided to go with the BTech GMRS-Pro and the push to talk (PTT) button.  This works slick with my HJC/Sena helmet system, as well as the Cardo Packtalk (and likely most others).  It pairs to the helmet intercom as a second phone.  This way you can still use the intercom via Bluetooth and mesh as normal until you are too far away and the intercom drops.  Then you simply use the PTT button to contact the other riders.  If and when you get back in intercom range you can switch back.  Switching back and forth is automatic really.  The intercom is much preferred as it allows continuous 2-way communication and is lower power (less radiation). I prefer to use the radio only when needed (which happens on many rides).  This BTech is really the only GMRS radio I found as of writing this post with Bluetooth profiles to support this configuration.  I found others that support Bluetooth for app integration but this device also supports profiles for hands free communication and the PTT remote. This radio is also waterproof making it a good choice.

My first attempt at mounting the radio was on my rear bag.

I stuck the PTT button on the left grip at first.

This radio is a 5 Watt unit which is not something you want too close to electronics or your body really.  I don't really need to see or touch the radio when riding since I have the PYY button and the mic and speakers use the helmet intercom system.  I set the channel and volume and forget it.  I decided to clip it into my rear pack, as far from me as I can.  I zip the pack on the clip which retains it very well.  The radio is waterproof so no worries there.   

That all seemed like a great idea until we tried it while riding.  The PTT button would only work sometimes, maybe half the time.  I suspect the EMI from the motorcycles ignition system interfered with the Bluetooth signal from the PTT button.  I decided it was time to mount the radio on the handlebars.  I made a mount on the left side which is also only a few inches between the PTT button and the radio.

I found that having the PTT button on the grip was a problem since it would sometimes get in the way of the clutch level.  I moved it to the mirror mount using a strip of Velcro tape and the strap it came with to keep it in position.

This worked OK but you have to reach for it and it can slide along the strap a bit.  I finally moved it to the clutch lever.

Look closely and you can see one zip tie on each side of the clutch adjuster so it can't move at all.

I used 2 small zip ties to retain it in place. Now I can use my index finger to press the button while riding without having to reach.  It is also in a place where I would never hit it by accident and it does not move at all. This works perfectly!

The GMRS radio can also communicate with FRS and Ham radios.  This means others can have an array of different radios and they can all work together.  You just have to chose the same channel.  FRS channels 1 - 7 appear to be the best choice for compatibility with both FRS and GMRS at 5W.  Channels 8 - 14 are limited to 0.5W so not great for our purposes.  Channels 15 - 22 would also be good as GMRS can go to 50W here but because of that high power capability you might pick of many other radios that are very far away.  

Here is how I setup my system.

1. Pair the BTech radio to your phone via Bluetooth.  This is used to simplify configuration, not communication really. The Btech app uses this connection to communicate with the radio so the app can be used.  Follow the instructions in the app.  
2. Pair the BTech radio to the push to talk (PTT) button.  Follow the directions that come with the radio and PTT button.
3. Pair the BTech radio to your helmet intercom via Bluetooth setting it as a second phone.  Follow the instructions for putting the radio in paring mode.  Then put the helmet intercom in pairing mode to pair to a phone.  Treat the radio as a 2nd phone in this case. With HJC/Sena you enter the configuration menu using the helmet intercom buttons until you hear "pair second phone".  Somewhat similar with the Cardo. On the Cardo hold the phone button until you hear "phone paring" then roll the roller forward and you should hear "second phone pairing".

I upgraded to the Cardo Packtalk Edge after initially writing this article. In general it works very similar to the Sena as far as radio integration.  

The Cardo Packtalk has a weak microphone in my experience.  I made this document to help make it better: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1pSw99DGPqQlbnlzCCxGzZUEQYRWzhN-yGs87ZEK4pRw/edit?usp=sharing by optimizing mic and speaker placement, as well as settings through the Cardo app. I also found the speakers are best placed so they actually touch your ears.  I stuck them to the helmet lines on the outside.  Sound is way louder this way.  

If you are going to have just one of the systems, I would use the GMRS radio.  This works for much longer distances which you will need off-road.  When you space out to keep out of each others dust, and you begin to worry someone behind needs, help, you can always just call them and check in. 

One downside of the radio is that others may use the channel you are on.  Your group will all need to switch channels to find a clear one, which can be a moving target. Since it is analog communication you also get background noise and poor reception at times. Also you need to use a push-to-talk button of some sort. Using the one on the radio while riding won't work out. Most GMRS radios are compatible with wired remote PTT buttons. I use the BTECH GMRS-PRO since it can use a Bluetooth PTT button.  

I bought a Husqvarna 701 Enduro

 I really enjoy riding my electric mountain bike off-road around here.  I go every weekend.  However, there are more places I would like to explore that are too far to go on it.  I do have a rack to carry it with my SUV but that takes work and still the riding range is limited (by me).  I started riding with a friend who is also into dual sport motorcycles.  He convinced me to get a dual sport bike.

Back in the 80's and 90's I had dirt bikes.  My first was a 1982 Honda XR250.  It was not very powerful so I upgraded to the XR500, then a 1986 XR600.  My last dirt bike was a 1989 KTM 500MX and that was the best bike I owned to that point.  Fast forward more than 25 years and now I bought this 2023 Husqvarna 701 Enduro.  

At 325lbs it is the heaviest bike I have owned by almost 60lbs.  It is also the most powerful at 74HP, 10HP more than my KTM.  I wanted a dual sport so I would not have to haul it and because I wanted to explore some roads that require licensed vehicles.  I like the idea of just riding from my house.    

Use an old smartphone for bike navigation

 

I enjoy mountain biking off-road and often in areas with no cellular.  Sometimes I ride in areas with many established trails that cross each other and navigation would help.  I looked into bike navigation but they have small screens, are costly, and many of the features are redundant with my Garmin fenix 6x Pro Solar watch.  I also never trade in my old smartphones so I have several fairly recent ones laying around.  I decided to use my old Motorola Z4 smartphone as a biking navigation using.  First I needed a real robust mount.  I started on Amazon and found this one. 

It grabs all 4 corners and locks in place.  

I cleared and reset the phone, removing all unnecessary apps to minimize battery consumption.  I also put it in airplane mode, and keep WiFi and Bluetooth off to save power.  The Moto Z4 I am using also supports MotoMod batteries, of which I have a few.  I am using the 2200mAh unit primarily and I can hot swap in others if it gets low on the trail (which is unlikely).  I could also connect the phone to the USB port in the bike display to keep it charged if I wanted.  I removed the SIM card as well so it would not search for cellular even out of airplane mode.  Then I installed Google Maps, Trailforks, Garmin Explore, and GAIA maps.  All of these offer offline maps of bike trails.  There are many others too.  So far I found GAIA to be the best for bike navigation as it can ever store satellite maps offline. 

Here is how I organized the home screen.   

Here is what GAIA maps looks like.

Here is a video showing the use of this riding some trails.

This first ride was on a pretty easy trail.  I have yet to test it on harsher rides but so far it seems solid.  I am of course by no means the first person to do this.  I wanted to use an old phone, and not my current phone, just in case that mount breaks or I crash the bike.  Also, I didn't want to drain the battery on the phone I use normally since I want to be able to make calls, or message through my Garmin satellite messenger in case of trouble.  

2010 Mercedes E350 4matic - sold

 

I am selling my 2010 Mercedes E350 4matic sedan.  It has 167k miles on it but runs and drives great.  There is a slight whine in the drivetrain that has been there for years.  The rims have curb rash and some are somewhat bent but it does not cause any problem. It was hit in the back in 2019 but there was no structural damage and we had it repaired at Benishek & Will which is a very reputable body shop.  Current Kelly Blue Book value is $5,782 - $8,569.  I will sell it for $6,000 or best offer.  

I bought this car in 2015 from Autohaus in Peoria.  We took many road trips in this car, especially between 2015 through 2018 so many of these miles are highway miles.  The car has had very few miles since 2021.  It has always been kept in a garage.  This is the first year of the W212 body style and these have been great cars.  

Biktrix Juggernaut Ultra FS Pro 3 - 350 mile update

I now have over 350 miles on this bike, most of that off-road.  This bike has been great for my riding style.  I have the optional range extender battery which allows me to ride about 75 miles off-road on a charge.  My riding includes many long hills and loamy conditions that burn through power too.   

I have had some creaking noises which sound like they are coming from the handlebar area and possible the motor area.  I checked and rechecked everything and all is tight.  

When I bought this bike they offered several upgrades.  One of which was a $300 Wren hub upgrade.  I passed on it thinking why would I need that?  Well, I found out why.  I was up at Little Red Rock on a loamy hill.  I hit the throttle and heard a snap and then the cassette just spun, no longer driving the wheel.

Luckily I was up hill so I was able to coast down to a main road and get picked up.  I got home and took the hub apart and sure enough the ratchet teeth had sheared the ends off.  

Now I decided to get the upgraded hub.  

If you have an electric mountain bike with a high torque motor like this Bafang Ultra M620, best to also get a hub that can support it.  

This bike is heavy but I used to ride dirt bikes back in the day so I don't mind the weight.  The bike alone (no batteries) is 72lbs according to Biktrix.  The main battery weighs 10.3lbs and the range extender weighs 7.6lbs.  Total weight is about 90lbs.  

Here is a video that shows the use of the throttle for some steeper or loamier bits in the beginning of the video.  Watch for my left thumb applying motor power (throttle).  Starting around the 5 minute mark, I begin the downhill portion that shows the suspension soaking up the terrain at around 20mph.

This next video shows a steep but short hill when I use the throttle to climb at about 25s in.

.    

Bought a 2021 Porsche Cayenne

 

We were looking to replace our Mercedes GL450 as it was accumulating miles and it does not get the best fuel economy.  As we really loved the GL450 we were looking at newer Mercedes GLS and GLE vehicles to replace it.  We drove many of both the GLS and GLE but could not find one that really worked for us.  The newer Mercedes seats were an issue, as was the overall feel of the vehicle.  We decided to look at Porsche Cayenne and drove a couple of them.  We liked the vehicle better and ended up with this 2021 base Cayenne.  

We had driven Cayenne's in the past (at least a decade ago) and never really liked them much so we didn't expect to like the newer ones either.  However, Cayenne's changed substantially in 2019.  Back in the day, the base Cayenne V6 was anemic too.  This new turbo V6 is much better.  I really wanted the hybrid version but cars are hard to find right now.  Also, the Cayenne Hybrid is getting an upgrade for 2024 so maybe in a few years we will upgrade to one of those.  For now we are getting used to the Cayenne.

Dream Racing in a C8 Corvette

 

I went to Dream Racing at the Las Vegas Motorplex to try out the new C8 Corvette.  I have been interested in the C8 since they announced it would finally be a proper mid-engine car.  I drive a Porsche Cayman S which is also mid-engine and it is the best layout for a sports car in my opinion.  I like the looks of the C8 Corvette as well.  

The experience starts with a short video to set expectations and orient you to the track and performance driving.  That is followed by a ride around the track in an SUV. One thing unique about Dream Racing versus Exotics Racing or Speed Vegas was you don't wear helmets in the street cars.  Helmets are only required in their race cars.

Seated in the car I adjusted the seat and wheel to my liking.  I am not a big fan of the large center console but it did not bother me as much while driving either. I could get used to it. The feel behind the wheel was centered and good.  As we pulled onto the track and gave it full throttle and the traction control kicked in for a bit.  The traction control intervenes a bit more than I would like but still better than many other sports cars.  It's hard to beat Porsche traction control on the track.  I only bought 7 laps and that is not even enough to really get consistent with the line as you can see in the video, I am a bit sloppy and inconsistent.  The engine makes 200HP more than my Cayman S and that was very nice.  It also has a wide powerband but drops off earlier than what I am used to in the Cayman S.  It took a bit to learn to shift earlier.  The sound is very different than the Porsche but it is a good sound.  That comes through pretty well on the video.  The transmission was also very good.  The handling is also good and pretty neutral.  I did not understeer like the Ferrari 488 did.  

My biggest complaints with this car is the brakes.  Dream Racing even upgraded to some slotted rotors but they were a bit warped when I started, and very warped by the end of my session.  The chassis could easily handle a serious brake upgrade and if I was going to track one of these, a brake upgrade would be a must.  I suspect the Z06 will have solved this issue.  

The car is clearly heavier than my Cayman S, by about 650lbs.  You can really feel it too.  The center of gravity is also noticeably higher.  The chassis gets more upset when switching directions than the Cayman S.  The car feels like it is sitting higher, based on the handling.  I felt like I could not push it as hard in the corners.  Dream Racing uses Pirelli P Zero tires and maybe they are not as good as the Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tires I have on the Cayman S.  The feedback was good and with some more seat time on the track I could work around this.  It was certainly a fun drive.  

The C8 Corvette is a great car and Chevy has done a great thing here delivering a car like this at the price point they are asking.  Most owners will likely never track this car hard and they will be very happy with their purchase.  Those who do want to track it should consider a brake upgrade first, or consider the Z06.  If Dream Racing or Speed Vegas get a Z06 I may just have to try that.   

So far the cars I have tried at these track venues are the Ferrari 488, the Porsche GT3 RS, and this Chevy Corvette.  The GT3 RS was the best track car. The next car I want to try at the track is the Porsche GT2 RS.  

I have now driven 3 different venues as well.  Speed Vegas has been purchased by Exotics Racing so now that is at the Speed Vegas facility south of town.  I drove Exotics Racing back when it was at the west edge of the Las Vegas Motor Speedway area north of town. Dream Racing is in the center of the Las Vegas Motor Speedway oval track. 

SunPower Solar System online

 

We had a SunPower solar system installed on our house.  It consists of 20, 400W panels, 14 on the East roof and 6 on the South.  The total system generating capacity is 8kW.  Since the panels are on different roof angles, it is unlikely to get that 8kW since they will reach peak output at different times.  

We still have net metering here so we did not install a battery system yet.  Net metering allows us to sell our excess power back to the energy company and accumulate a positive balance with the utility.  During the times of year with higher solar generation than consumption we build up a credit which can be used during the summer months to pay for the usage that exceeds our generating.  Basically, you somewhat use the grid as a enormous long-term battery.  I believe as more solar powers the grid, these net meting plans will go away so I wanted to get in while they were still available.  The 30% tax credit was also a huge incentive.  Our system went online in April, the same month the utility raised the rates over 6% making the value prop that much stronger.   

Utility power meter for solar showing energy sold back to the grid (arrow left)

Here is what the dashboard shows for a full day.

The system requires changing your power plan and your house power meter with the utility.  The new meter shows which direction power is flowing.  You can also see the daily summary on the utility website.

The grey shows the amount of energy the solar generated and the house used.  The green shows the net power we sold back to the grid.  The black shows the amount beyond what we generated in solar that we had to buy from the grid.  April 12 was a cloudy day and April 13 was sunny.  Even on that cloudy day we generated most of what we used.  

Our system is sized to deliver 100% of our annual electric energy needs based on prior power consumption. It does not generate 100% of our peak power needs.  The system also does not supply power if the grid goes down.  We would need a battery system for that.  At some point it will make sense to add a battery system but right now with net metering and a very stable grid here it does not seem cost effective.  I do expect the cost of home energy storage to drop and the systems improve going forward.

Garmin InReach Messenger Review

 

I like to ride my mountain bike up in the mountains.  Sometimes I am in canyons between mountains where there is no cellular reception.  I decided I needed a satellite messenger so I could always communicate, and for safety.  I already have a Garmin fenix 6X Pro Solar watch, and a Virb Ultra 30 camera so I decided to stick with Garmin for this as well.  As I was looking, they just introduced this InReach Messenger device so I bought one.  

This device integrates with the Garmin ecosystem so the watch can trigger tracking and well as SOS and other features.  This device also pairs with my smartphone so I can use the smartphone UI to create, send, read messages and other functions.  Using the smartphone is very handy as it has a nice big screen and I am very used to interacting with it versus learning a new UI that is far smaller.  The device uses a Messenger app to connect and interact with the device.  The device can be used stand-alone though which is great.  If for some reason I did not have my phone I could still communicate.  

I had read some reviews about this device as it was just coming out.  One of the pro's was great battery life.  I have found the battery life to be stellar actually.  I am writing this article in April and I have not charged it since last year.  It is still over 70%.  I use the device about 3 hours a weekend most weekends, year round.

Messaging is pretty simple and it can automatically switch between WiFi, Cellular, and Satellite as needed to minimize satellite charges.  I have never used all my messages in a month.  It also sends my location every 10 minutes so my family can see where I am regardless of cellular connection.  This is great for safety.  

Overall I would highly recommend this device for people who like to go places where there is no cellular.    

Contrasting electric mountain bike hub-drive versus mid-drive

I enjoy real off-road mountain bike riding in places where full suspension is a must and fat tires are needed to get through the soft loam.  Much of my riding includes long steep hills, some in loamy terrain.  I often ride Jeep trails as well as dedicated bike trails.  

I started with a very inexpensive mountain bike with full suspension and 2-1/4" wire tires.  The narrow tires would sink in to the gravel and sand I often encounter.  Even on hard pack trails, the long steep climbs were exhausting.  I realized I needed a fat tire bike with full suspension.  Once you get that, you have a heavy bike so I decided to go electric as well (which of course add even more weight).

I have been riding my Rurui XT10 rear hub drive electric mountain bike over a year and over 1,100 miles. In that time I failed 2 controllers due to overloading them on long steep hills.  Since the motor must handle the wide speed range with no transmission, it is very poorly suited to low speed riding.  On PAS 1 it would go about 12mph where assist would then taper off.  Below about 10mph the motor was just turning too slow and was very inefficient. Electric motors may produce high torque at low speeds but they cannot sustain that very long.  The long steep hills were too much for the hub drive system.  The hub drive I have in this bike is geared which helps but it was not enough of a gear ratio for the riding I was doing.  Freewheeling the bike would reach 39mph top motor speed.  I never needed to motor to 39mph.  25mph would have been much more applicable to my riding.  A hub drive with much high gear ratio could really help.  

However, the other issue is how and when power is applied. The Rurui had what is called a "cadence" sensor which measures the crank speed.  In reality it seemed to only measure if there was crank speed or not.  If you were pedaling, it applied power assist based on your PAS level selected.  It makes for a strange riding experience since the motor power applied is independent of your pedaling force.  There is also a delay in reading pedaling speed (cadence) and applying power.  If you wanted to ride slow through some technical bits, you really had to cut the motor power.  I would often do this by just pulling a brake lever far enough to cut the motor.  There are now hub-drive bikes that use torque sensors.  

I think hub drives are a decent approach for road bikes or at least when riding on well developed hard trails with gentle slopes.  

I analyzed many approaches to augmenting the Rurui to better suit my riding.  I could add a front hub drive and I have seen some bike like that on the market.  However many of the downsides would still exist, now with the added weight of another motor and a whole bunch of added complexity.  

I could add a mid-drive.  This would give the benefit of mid-drive but also keep the hub drive.  It could more than double my power.  I could switch between as needed or use both.  Again, weight and complexity were concerns.  Another big concern was how low the add-on mid drive systems hang.  I already had problems smashing my pedals on rocks I did not want to smash a motor.  

It was time to just upgrade the bike.  I needed a powerful mid-drive bike with more speeds to handle tougher off-road situations.  I needed to be able to crawl along at lower speeds through the technical stuff.  I needed to be able to climb much steeper and longer off-road hills.  I needed better suspension to keep the pedals out of the rocks.  I needed a drive system that would work better at low speeds and higher loads for long periods.  I wanted less un-spring mass on the bike for improved suspension performance.  After many months of research, I decided on the Biktrix Juggernaut Ultra FS Pro 3.

The differenced was stark and immediate.  The very first thing I noticed was the power delivery.  It is pretty much immediate assist when you start pedaling.  I can start off up a fairly steep hill with no problem.  It is like having bionic legs.  Since it is sensing the pedaling force to apply power, the response of very controlled and natural.  Here are some video clips from my first off-road ride on the bike. 

I have ridden this route before on the Rurui several times.  I normally have to get off and push the bike up the steep parts.  Not on the Biktrix.  I did push through a few very steep technical bits but that was not because the bike could not climb it.  This ride was a breeze on the Biktrix.  

The mid-drive system takes advantage of the narrower pedal cadence speeds versus wheel speeds.  The motor is geared to apply much more torque since it does not have to deal with very high pedal speeds.  It takes advantage of the bike gears to support a wide range of bike speeds.  

As with everything, there are of course some trade-offs.  When shifting gears motor power is interrupted to protect the gears from damage.  As with a non-electric bike, when shifting you should reduce pedal force until the sift is complete.  This of course does interrupt power delivery for a second.  Another trade-off is that this total power from pedaling plus the motor power now goes through your chain and gears.  This will be very hard on them.  Even if I have to change the chain, chainring, and cassette every year it will be totally worth it.  

If you enjoy real off-road riding, the mid drive with many speeds (11 in my case) and wide speed changes (42t-11t) is the way to go.  Hub drive could be fine in flatter and hard-packed terrain where you plan to be at speeds greater than 10mph at all times.  

Biktrix Juggernaut Ultra FS Pro 3 - 30 mile review

 

I bought this bake based on my experiences with prior bikes given where I like to ride.  I go off-road much more than on pavement.  I put 1,200 miles on my Rurui XT10 and learned many things about the pros and cons of hub drive electric mountain bikes.  I realized that for my riding I needed a powerful mid-drive bike so after shopping around, I bough this.

The power delivery from this bike is much better suited to my riding.  It uses both crank torque and cadence sensors to determine how much motor power to add.  This is a much more controlled and natural way to add assist power.  It also takes advantage of all the gears, 11 on this bike, to provide high torque and a wide speed range.  The mid-drive is also all suspended weight which gives better suspension dynamics in rough terrain.  

It arrived in a box very similar to my Rurui bike did.

Like the Rurui, I had it assembled in about 30 minutes.  Pretty easy.

I took a couple short rides around the neighborhood and adjusted it to get everything working well and the best ergonomic feel.

My first off-road ride was out to a trail I had been building, less than 8 mile round trip.  Later that same day, I took it for a 23 mile loop which included paved bike path, long steep hills, loamy washes, rocky hard-pack, and everything else the desert has.  I had ridden most of this route before on the Rurui so this was a great ride to contrast them.  This bike is so much better suited to off-road riding.  With 11 speeds and the mid-drive, it can climb any hill with ease.  I shot a YouTube video with some clips from that ride.

I don't even have the range extended battery installed yet but so far the battery life is fantastic.  Surely this is at least partly due to the mid-drive motor being in a much more efficient operating range, especially in the off-road situations that require high power such as steep hills and loamy terrain.  The hub drive was just turning too slow and to close to stall where it become very inefficient and is hard on the controller too.  The mid-drive has a much narrower operating speed since it is based on crank speed and takes advantage of the gears to handle a wide wheel speed range.  

The Biktrix has a better suspension too.  It has air suspension front and rear.  The front rake has more angle which makes the wheelbase a bit longer, making the bike more stable at higher speeds.  This also angles the wheel more when turning.